Filippo Grazioli champions the concept of lightness, emphasizing Missoni’s role in conveying ease, sensuality, and a spontaneous approach to dressing. During a showroom appointment, he articulated the brand’s mission to align with the pace of contemporary lifestyles.
For the pre-fall season, the atmosphere exuded an urban, slightly ’70s vibe. Grazioli directed his focus towards masculine tailoring, embracing soft, unstructured, and fluid shapes. A standout example was a pantsuit featuring an updated fiammato pattern in dark chocolate brown and black. The ensemble comprised a gently oversized blazer paired with slouchy, elasticated pants. Svelte city coats, presented in malleable knitted textures with lamé yarns or alpaca in soft natural tones, introduced detachable collars for additional warmth. The classic Missoni cardigan, crafted using the patented Caperdoni technique in a spectrum of hues, underwent a transformation into an oversized version that doubled as a minidress.
Playing with contrasts, the collection juxtaposed roomy proportions against form-fitting silhouettes. Sinuous midi dresses, featuring stretchy fabrics adaptable to the body, often showcased diagonal chevron patterns. Ultra-mini versions exuded a sexier, younger appeal, signaling Missoni’s intention to cater to a broader customer base. Colors were subdued and delicate, aiming to be approachable even to those averse to bold palettes and excessive pattern mash-ups. Grazioli’s approach to Missoni is characterized by gentleness rather than flashiness.